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Smoke & Mirrors


It was makeup artist Linda Cantello who first laid claim to the ‘smokey eye’ when she created the look with Tom Ford during his Gucci days.

 

 

Dark eyes had traditionally been very defined in both the corner and the lid, but it was Cantello that thought to blend it all in, with the look quickly becoming a signature look for Ford, known as the ‘Gucci look’.

While the smokey eye has long since evolved, it is still marked by a lack of demarcation line between eyeshadow shades.

A versatile look that flatters everybody, you can keep it as simple as you choose, you’re not restricted to just a black/grey colour spectrum and you’re guaranteed to look like a
smouldering temptress if you pull it off.

The key is to always keep the darkest point at the lash line.

Sticking to no more than three shadows and a liner will make your eyes pop.

But the clincher when it comes to creating the ultimate smokey eye? Blending – lots and lots of blending.

When you’re creating a smokey eye, it doesn’t matter how dark you go or what colours you use, it’s how well you can blend the liner and shadow that creates that sultry look.

Dramatic, daring and bold, it’s the perfect look for everything from a night out to a special occasion.


 

Makeup Movers: KSSM


A great environment, friendly faces and a passion for practice are what make for a perfect place to carry out study.

 

 

A love of makeup is the reason that in 12 years the Kristen Stewart School of Makeup has seen more than 500 diplomas awarded to eager students, some of whom have attained prestigious roles in the industry throughout New Zealand.

Speaking to Kristen herself, it’s evident that the makeup connoisseur lives and breathes what she does.

She was excited to announce that they’ve now moved premises. “It’s nice to be in a space I’m really excited about. I’ve always wanted to provide a cool space with a nice vibe.”

The school offers “a good opportunity for people to kickstart their career. The main diploma happens four times a year for eight weeks and the part-time option, which involves two nights a week between 5-8pm, is great for people working or students in their final year of school who want to get ahead,” Kristen says.

There is also a great community of students past, present and prospective that showcase the KSSM name.

“We instill professionalism in our students and make sure they’re work ready. But when they leave the doors don’t close, we’re always here. They are all like family”.

Thinking of picking up the brush?  The next diploma starts 20 July, followed shortly by the part-time option commencing 21 July.


 

Buzzwords of Beauty


Buzzwords are the latest and greatest of things to hit an industry and, when it comes to beauty, there’s no shortage of products and concepts that are set to revolutionise our skincare regimes. We’ve pulled out some of the latest lingo that’s bouncing around the beauty world

 

 

Gender-fluid: Makeup has long been seen as a feminine practice for women to flourish in. The industry targeted women to buy their products and rarely threw their bone to the other ’50 percent’. Thanks to male influencers like Jeffree Star, James Charles and Manny MUA, the world of makeup has had a shakeup. And we can’t forget the transgender queens; Nikita Dragun, Gigi Gorgeous and Nikkie de Jager, big names which are helping to blur the lines and push the boundaries.


Multi-tasking: Despite having 24 hours in the day, a lot of the time it feels like we have next to no time to do anything. That’s why products that can both simplify and shorten our skincare routine are worth investing in. The idea of a product that can multi-task and offer a 4-in-1 or a 3-in-1, is something worth getting behind.


Clean cosmeceuticals: Not everyone will read the back of the label from start to finish with a list of ingredients of what’s inside. So, it’s good to buy from a company you can trust and have a reputation for creating quality products. There’s this belief that natural-based beauty is not as effective than its synthetic alternatives and that’s not the case. Naturally-derived skincare measures up to and in some instances beats out its competition.


#sponsored: It’s hard to be on Instagram or any social media platform and not be aware of what an influencer is… they’re everywhere. They’ll usually be busy showing us a highlight reel of their life, telling us about their new dog, boyfriend or makeup launch. But it’s the #sponsored hashtag that they have to add to their paid posts that is what makes things interesting. Obviously they can choose who they collaborate with but it can be hard deciding if they really ‘can’t live their life without a certain product’, or if that’s the dollar signs talking.


 

Sheer Genius


Cool weather woes got you craving a minimal, no-fuss beauty regime? Well we’ve got you covered – both figuratively and literally! Because innovative new products mean you can get the coverage without layering up the foundation. We check out some top tips to get sheer coverage before winter really lays in.

 

 

Power of the prep
Yes we know, you’re going for an au-naturale looking finish here, but prep is still critical. For a boost of radiance, hunt out a primer designed to give your skin the glow-factor. However, if you tend to err on the side of oily, stick with a mattifying product.

Ready, set!
Even though it’s light cover we’re after, you still want it to last as long as possible, right? So finish off your makeup with a few squirts of setting spray, which will help prevent your makeup from slipping right back off.

Sheer delight
When it comes to application of sheer or light coverage products, you need to apply this in a thin, even layer over your entire complexion and down your neck. A damp beauty blender (or makeup sponge) will help to create a natural finish.
The added bonus of sheer foundations is that the product won’t settle into fine lines or wrinkles, so it is great for mature skin, providing just enough coverage to give you a beautiful, even skin tone. You glow girl!


 

Beauty for the big day


Brides will be letting their true beauty really shine through this decade, with makeup magic that has come a very long way.

 

 

Hailing from Christchurch, Charlotte Edwardes, a wedding makeup artist at Island Beauty on romantic Waiheke Island, makes up stunning brides from all nationalities.

Her number one tip: “keep it natural to radiate warmth from within – so you’re glowing from the inside.”

“A softer, natural look seems to be the trend, and products are now unbelievable in how they can achieve this. Contouring is less pronounced now – much softer – as there are too many high-definition lenses out there to capture any stage tricks!”

She says no particular trend reigns; people just like to look different to what they do every day at work.

Also, personality, skin tone, and what suits the colour of the skin and face shape matters the most.

“However, there are less nude-shaded lips now and more colour. Some brides really suit that classic matte red, especially for a Chanel ’40s look. Some with naturally rosy lips are opting for just gloss. They might want a pink lippy to match a pink bouquet for example. Soft corals, apricots and peaches are also featuring – glorious with an heirloom antique-lace dress. Pink undertones fair better than orange and brown for whiter-looking teeth, and a lip conditioner makes a big difference.”

Charlotte see brides of all ages looking absolutely beautiful for their big day.

“The latest formulas of powder-cream blushes are more forgiving for fine lines, and are best applied directly on the cheek. Pigments are now richer, sharper and a lot finer – and therefore more flattering. Gold-shimmered eyelids and bronze highlights can be sensuously subtle. Mineral foundations are perfectly lightweight for dewy skin at any age, and I use a high-definition setting powder.”

A highlight for the bridal party is getting glammed up together. “I recently made up a grandmother of the bride in her ‘90s. She was crying because she felt so beautiful.”

The eyes express all on the wedding day. Local eye-makeup influencer Nikita Rindel is all about eyes on her popular Instagram page Nikitahhx.

Over the past couple of years, she’s noticed brides and bridal parties wanting a more natural and simplistic look, rather than a defined contour and smokey eyes, and says 2020 will mark this exact trend.

“Brides will instead concentrate on enhancing their natural beauty rather than on the ‘creativity’ of the makeup. Fake lashes always make the eyes pop, so I feel this won’t go away anytime soon – but rather than rock a winged liner and daytime smokey eye, brides will opt for a light and more simplistic look such as a light shimmer and semi-dramatic lashes. Ardell offer the best bridal lashes in my opinion; lightweight yet dramatic enough to make a statement.”

Experimenting and trialling new products and different looks is always an exciting part of the planning.

Youngblood is a makeup line developed by former medical aesthetician Pauline Youngblood.

Its luxurious base of fine natural minerals avoids common irritants often found in makeup – imperative for a stress-free wedding day.

Feeling calm and serene in your skin ensures you will look it too.


 

Kind Beauty


Despite the saying, we don’t always have to be cruel to be kind. The idea that ‘beauty is pain’ shouldn’t have to refer to the testing processes on animals.

 

 

While not every makeup and skincare company uses this form of testing, it is more common than you think. Therefore, using products that are cruelty-free, vegan and contain naturally derived ingredients is not only trending but also helps out furry friends in need.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (P.E.T.A) provide a list online of 22 completely vegan beauty and body brands. We’ve looked over the list and provided you with a quick guide to shopping better.

Hand cream is an essential for the warmer weather as our hands tend to dry up and begin to feel stiff. Nature’s Gate hand cream comes in three different blends: Orchid, Rose, and Cherry Blossom. All of the company’s products are made from fruit and plant extracts, essential oils and herbs.

It’s sometimes easy to forget to take off your makeup but it’s a step you’ll look forward to with Pacifica’s Kale Detox Deep Cleansing Face Wash. It’s perfect for both removing makeup and cleansing the skin. Basically it’s a juice cleanse but for your face.

Finally, a fact for the fellas. Billy Jealousy is an icon in the men’s grooming industry. They offer beard oil, pomade, shaving products and more. With the added bonus of being cruelty-free, vegan friendly, PETA-approved and containing natural ingredients, what’s not to love?

 


 

Age Defying


Fine lines, dark circles, age spots, dry skin and thinning hair are just a few of the unavoidable aspects of getting older that keep us up at night. There are some clever tricks of the trade that make it possible to bring back that youthful glow.

 

 

 

Vitamin C
Beauty bloggers and dermatologists are raving about Vitamin C for anti-aging. It can improve the appearance and texture of your skin by decreasing the sun’s harmful effect on the skin and preventing future damage. It also encourages collagen production to promote skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. What’s more, this miracle antioxidant targets stubborn skin discoloration and reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation, redness and under-eye circles. Serums are one of the best ways to add Vitamin C to your skincare routine.


Dermal Fillers
These anti-aging injectables fill in wrinkles and depressions, replenishing lost volume to smooth your skin and promote an even complexion. Dermal fillers like Restylane and Juvéderm® use hyaluronic acid, a sugar naturally found in the body, to soften facial wrinkles and restore volume. When injected into the skin, it causes a smoothing, filling effect where lost volume needs to be restored. The effects of hyaluronic acid last between six and 12 months. An experienced injector who understands facial anatomy can give you the natural results you want.


Microneedling
As the name suggests, microneedling involves pricking the skin with tiny needles, creating microscopic channels for anti-aging products, like hyaluronic acid or Vitamin C, to penetrate the deep layers of the skin. The tiny injuries caused by the needles promote collagen production and build new elastin. The anti-aging results of microneedling are most apparent after four to five treatments. The treatment is especially effective at treating large pores, acne scars, neck lines and wrinkles around the mouth.


Microblading
Just as your hair thins with age, your eyebrows may start to look sparse as you get older. Microblading is a non-surgical cosmetic procedure that can give you the appearance of thick, lush brows to lift your face and make you look younger. The technique involves using a hand-controlled device with ultrafine needles to make microscopic strokes which are filled in with semi-permanent pigment that resembles your natural eyebrow hair, creating a defined shape and fuller look. Results last between one and three years, depending on skin type.


Vitamin A (Retinol)
The wrinkles and freckles we associate with aging appear most prominently on skin that has been exposed to the sun. Vitamin A, which you might also see labelled as retinol, helps fade these dark spots and stimulates the production of new skin cells. And these are just the creams and serums you can get over the counter. Prescription-strength retinoid can actually renew the skin by treating acne, reducing the appearance of fine lines and evening out skin tone. Not only can retinol boost collagen production and treat the signs of aging that are already there but also it can potentially prevent future sun damage.


BOTOX®/Dysport®/Xeomin®
Among the millions of minimally invasive cosmetic procedures performed each year, BOTOX® is one of the most popular. It is used to reduce fine lines and wrinkles in the face by paralysing the underlying muscles, which stops the overlying skin from creasing. The anti-aging effects last between three and six months. It is important to note that BOTOX® will not treat wrinkles caused by sun damage, but, when paired with another treatment like microneedling, BOTOX® can produce fantastic anti-aging results.


Radiofrequency Skin Tightening
A radiofrequency (RF) treatment involves heating the deepest layers of the skin to encourage new collagen production and cell turnover to help the skin become firmer, thicker and younger-looking. While lasers work to improve the skin’s surface, radiofrequency treatments use a lower frequency to safely penetrate to a deeper level. This helps improve skin tone and structure, and it can even lift tissue. Radiofrequency treatments can be performed in tandem with injectables, microneedling and other minimally invasive treatments to achieve complete facial rejuvenation.


Makeup
Makeup can transform your appearance and minimise the physical signs of aging. Primer helps minimise fine lines and large pores by filling them in. For fuller lips, lightly draw over the border on your lips with a lip liner that matches your natural lip tone and top with a sheer gloss. Bold and defined eyebrows can also make you look younger. A brow pencil that is a cross between a pencil and a powder will create the illusion of fuller brows. For your eyes, use a cream eye shadow in a neutral shade and apply powder illuminator to the inner corner of your eyes. Cream and silicone-based cosmetics work best for aging complexions because they ‘melt’ into the skin and offer a flawless, natural-looking finish, while powder settles into fine lines and can make the signs of aging more apparent.


Laser Resurfacing
Laser resurfacing uses short, concentrated beams of light to remove layers of the skin for improved texture. Facial flaws like age spots, acne scars, wrinkles and sun damage respond well to laser resurfacing as it smooths out your skin for a complexion that not only looks younger, but actually is younger. A series of treatments are best for long-lasting results.

This article first appeared on Aedition. Visit www.aedit.com

 


 

Winter Warmers: Beauty Sense


On point winter looks from Youngblood Mineral Makeup.

 

 

From the perfect pout to the radiance of a dewy complexion, there’s something for everyone in the Youngblood Mineral Makeup collection. We’ve checked out some of our favourites.

  1. HOTSHOT + POPPY
    Get up close and personal with comfortable matte perfection. Intimatte Mineral Lipsticks glide on with full-coverage matte pigments and natural emollients so lips feel hydrated and look sophisticated. These velvety, precious oil-infused lipsticks deliver luxurious, high-pigment mineral colour while moisturising the lips with light notes of creamy vanilla. In 23 trend-worthy shades including luscious nudes, bold pinks, sensual plums and daring reds.
  2. MINERAL RADIANCE MOISTURE TINT
    The effortless answer to looking ‘off duty flawless’, this lightweight, oil-free tinted moisturiser leaves skin comfortably hydrated while providing sheer coverage and protecting the skin from environmental damage. The nourishing formula delivers a surge of marine nutrients with a youthful, dewy finish and fresh California orange fragrance. Mineral Radiance Moisture Tint is available in six skin-perfecting shades, including a universal, golden-toned bronzer in the shade Golden Sun.

 


 

Kristen Stewart School of Makeup

Makeup Magic: Kristen Stewart School of Makeup


While it’s known as Makeup Artistry, the creative process of applying colour to face and body can also be big business and Kristen Stewart School of Makeup (KSSM) here in Christchurch is the go-to school to bring your talent to the market.

 

Kristen Stewart School of Makeup

 

With 23 years in makeup artistry behind her and 10 years as Director of KSSM, Kristen Stewart is thrilled with the diverse places her training has taken school alumni. Lochie Stonehouse is currently National Makeup Artist for Yves Saint Laurent and Giorgio Armani, and was Events Artist for M.A.C. cosmetics. Hawaii-based Natalie Bruce went freelance with Nike, Adidas and Roxy as clients, plus Disney movies and Jurassic World, Discovery Channel and Hawaii Five-0 to her credit.

Capped at 10 students, KSSM Diploma Courses provide work experience that you will not find at any other school. KSSM is constantly approached to bring students to work on real shoots and shows – the Ronald McDonald House annual fashion show event is a regular, plus this is the only school in New Zealand that brings students along with the core team of qualified artists to work at New Zealand Fashion Week!
The sole New Zealand school with fashion photography as their specialty, KSSM has a gorgeous new studio on Peterborough Street, where parking is easy.

Kristen loves seeing students flourish and become supremely skilled. “By the end of the course when they have access to the full makeup cupboard, I get to see who they have become as artists. Then they go into the world and find success – they’re like my babies.”

 



 

Bridal Makeup Magic

Bridal Makeup Magic


Cameras, kisses, champagne, sunshine and tears of happiness – bridal makeup must last through it all.

 

Bridal Makeup Magic

 

A bride’s beautiful face is by far the most unforgettable image of the big day. Weddings might have become a more casual affair for many, but makeup really needs to be perfectly faultless. With a pre-wedding ritual all of its own, it requires the calm creative touch of a professional, who will ensure stress lines don’t feature!

There is much to ponder before picking out colours and products. The weather, the venue, skin type, the dress and, most vital of all, your unique personality. Thankfully, it’s a fanciful era of everything goes for wedding beauty. Nude shimmery lips or matte rose-red pouts, cat’s eyes or doe eyes, sun-kissed skin or a pale porcelain complexion.

 

Choosing a makeup artist is like finding a bridesmaid, you’ll be on a personal journey together. A good consultant will ask you everything – as absolutely loving your look is number one. Browse Instagram, Pinterest and magazines until you spot that certain image you adore and aspire to.

This guarantees you’re both on the same page. An invaluable trial makeup session is now the thing to do. This ensures you’re feeling comfortable, have made the right choices, your skin won’t react, and you can test out how the products last on your skin. You can buy the lippy for touch ups on the day, or the consultant often has sample sizes.

Don’t do anything drastic or dramatic to your eyebrows near the time that you haven’t tried before. The makeup artist can create them with gels, pencils, or powder on the day. However, microblading is a refined process in stages, with a flattering outcome such as beautifully arched brows akin to Audrey Hepburn. The timelessly feminine winged flick on the eyelids is a photogenic look this lady also rocked so well.

Specialist makeup brands, such as hypo-allergenic Lauren & Louise Cosmetica, ensures luminous photo-worthy effects. Primers for complexion and eyelids are so important for a long-lasting coverage that won’t melt away. Mineral powder and cream blushes appear softer and it’s a bridal trend to highlight the cheekbones. Careful makeup to the décolletage will limit any high-colour flushing and ensure this skin area matches your complexion.

Shimmery shadows are so fine and delicate these days – any age can wear them. Pinky golds are a romantic choice, and the new emeralds and violets for shadows and liners emulate jewel-like fantasy. Gold is also staring, for all over goddess-like glamour.
High definition cameras mean an overall softer makeup effect is essential, as deeper tones can be too harshly accentuated. The wedding makeup artist will work their technical magic so you and your bridesmaids look picture perfect both on and off camera.